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Mission accomplished!
Monday, 6 June 2011
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Wednesday, 25 May 2011
The Snow Desert
This is the snow field that needs to be navigated beneath Island Peak
The Snow Desert, posted with vodpod
Gelsyn comes to Kathmandu
If you read an earlier post about Gelsyn you will know that he has tonnes of potential but is incredibly poor and had no opportunity to go to school when he was young.
He is so hard working and had an incredible attitude and climbed Island Peak twice in two days!!
Anyway to become a climbing Sherpa and guide he needs to learn English and then go on a climbing course.
I have decide to pay for all this for him and today was his first ever time on a plane - the reason - he has to fly to Kathmandu to come to language school. We have found him somewhere to rent for three months and put him in a great language school.
This is him below as we got ready to leave Lukla Airport - here's a guy that really made his own luck by working hard and having a great attitude.
Let's wish him all the best in Kathmandu!!!
Monday, 23 May 2011
The Way Home
This is the walk out of Island Peak Base Camp.
I need to lose 3000m in altitude and cover about 60km in 3 days
I need to lose 3000m in altitude and cover about 60km in 3 days
The Ridge
You gotta love that summit ridge - getting upto it is another story entirely - I will get the photos from my other camera to show you
Two Black Dots
The two black dots are people about to up climb the ice cliff which leads to the ridge in the proceeding picture - the ray of sun light is shining just to the right of the summit itself and you can see the summit ridge on the left of the summit
Summit View
To be higher than all these other major mountains is incredible - I am higher here than any other point outside Asia
Proof
Just so you can see exactly how high we are - I moved around a bit on the summit and it finished on 6188m
D
D
The sun is getting closer
Good job too as I was starting to think I had the onset of frostbite in 3 of my fingers. That's a worrying thought I can tell you!!
Sunrise
Perfect weather conditions - not much wind and hardly a cloud in the sky - in marked contrast to yesterday where it was a white out in terms of cloud
Island Peak Snow Fields
Note the odd path we have taken across the snow field well that is to avoid the huge crevasses that litter the mountain like a mine field
Dawn over Makalu
The sun begins to rise over Makalu which is the 5th highest mountain in the world. It also looks a little like a mini Everest
Climbing in the Dark
What an experience covering the first 6 to 7 hundred metres in the middle of the night - a pitch black sky, an almost full moon, no clouds - the stars were out in force and the mountains were bathed in a beautiful lunar light. This photo was taken just as the sun began to come up.
Ice Cliffs
These are the Ice Cliffs at 'Crampon Point' - where you switch from regular hiking boots to full on mountaineering boots - fortunately we don't have to climb these ones. It's now about 4.30 am
Time to Go!!
It's 1 am and we are just setting off for Island Peak - I have had about 3 hours sleep since arriving at Base Camp in the afternoon - combination of noise, excitement and altitude make it difficult to get some proper sleep.
Snowing
It's just started snowing at Base Camp and I got to tell you I am now beginning to get a little bit nervous - I have maybe an hour before I go to sleep - then 5 hours sleep - up at midnight for 'breakfast' and the first 5 hours will be covered by torch light!
And it's snowing but I suppose it is the Himalayas!
And it's snowing but I suppose it is the Himalayas!
Mmmmmm
Tomato Soup is my favourite and I have been using up my stash of cup-a-soups!!
The cook has just 'made' this one and poured in enough garlic to keep the entire casts of True Blood and Twilight at bay! Apparently it's good for you at altitude!
The cook has just 'made' this one and poured in enough garlic to keep the entire casts of True Blood and Twilight at bay! Apparently it's good for you at altitude!
Inside
Believe it or not this photo was taken inside and all the items of clothing are necessary to keep me warm!
This is effectively the end of Day 4 in terms of trekking and if it is this cold at 3800m where there is currently no snow on the ground and I'm inside then outside at over 5000m on Goyko Ri should be interesting.
What is the temperature I hear you say? That's easy - it begins with an F.
This is effectively the end of Day 4 in terms of trekking and if it is this cold at 3800m where there is currently no snow on the ground and I'm inside then outside at over 5000m on Goyko Ri should be interesting.
What is the temperature I hear you say? That's easy - it begins with an F.
Lhotse Shar Glacier
This is just one of 3 major glaciers that are melting and adding dangerous volume to the Imja Tsho Lake.
Sitting alone beside something so powerful is quite a humbling experience.
Note the drop-off by the end of the sand, that is the cliff face leading directly down to the lake.
Sitting alone beside something so powerful is quite a humbling experience.
Note the drop-off by the end of the sand, that is the cliff face leading directly down to the lake.
Imja Tsho Lake
This picture was taken on Friday 20th May 2011 - this lake has grown by 35 million cubic metres since 1960. It is due to global warming causing the glacier next to it to melt.
Scientists are predicting a 'vertical tsunami' when this lake bursts its banks washing away everything in it's path - that will mean villages, bridges and people!!
Scientists are predicting a 'vertical tsunami' when this lake bursts its banks washing away everything in it's path - that will mean villages, bridges and people!!
Doggy
This is my new friend - he has followed me from Chukkung to Island Peak Base Camp - that's quite a walk!!
Hopefully an old mongrel following you in the mountains is a sign of good fortune!
Hopefully an old mongrel following you in the mountains is a sign of good fortune!
Island Peak Base Camp
So after 15 days, 110km, 11000m in ascent, 3 major passes, 2 minor peaks, 7 nights in a tent and 1 new dog we have made it to Base Camp.
We are sitting at 5200m - 1000m more to the summit
We have just met with an expedition from the day before, two clients attempted the summit - 1 made it and 1 turned back at 5700m
Sitting at Base Camp it becomes very clear that this is a serious business and not everyone's dream will be realised.
I feel in good shape for the altitude and I am going to do which is give 110% and not stop until I hit my goal. There is no way that I'm going to give up.
I'll see you on the other side
We are sitting at 5200m - 1000m more to the summit
We have just met with an expedition from the day before, two clients attempted the summit - 1 made it and 1 turned back at 5700m
Sitting at Base Camp it becomes very clear that this is a serious business and not everyone's dream will be realised.
I feel in good shape for the altitude and I am going to do which is give 110% and not stop until I hit my goal. There is no way that I'm going to give up.
I'll see you on the other side
Snowed In
We are totally snowed in - it's 7.42 am on May 19th our supposed summit day but there is thick snow everywhere and heavy cloud.
Nothing to do but wait wait wait wait
Nothing to do but wait wait wait wait
May 19th - Snowing
It seems it can snow on any day of the year here and mid May we had heavy snow for the whole night.
Today is summit day so actually that is good news that there is fresh snow so lets see how it goes....
Today is summit day so actually that is good news that there is fresh snow so lets see how it goes....
Ama Dablam
Not far to go now and the scenery is getting even more fantastic - if that is possible!!
This is Ama Dablam, just under 7000m but one of the most challenging peaks in the region.
Today I have been practicing my rope techniques and all seems good - I'm feeling ready for Island Peak. All altitude problems have gone away - sleeping at 5400m - (higher than Everest Base Camp) generally does that. It's just time to get on with the job!
This is Ama Dablam, just under 7000m but one of the most challenging peaks in the region.
Today I have been practicing my rope techniques and all seems good - I'm feeling ready for Island Peak. All altitude problems have gone away - sleeping at 5400m - (higher than Everest Base Camp) generally does that. It's just time to get on with the job!
The Cho La
So this is the famous Cho La pass, the 2nd of 3 I will be crossing on my way to Island Peak.
It is devastatingly high - one of the highest passes in the world at over 5500 m.
Sitting in front of it and staring up at it is quite daunting - it is a 4 mile high wall of solid rock covered in ice and snow.
What is amazing though is listening to it. Every few minutes a huge rock bounces down it's walls, sending huge plumes of snow in to the sky.
Every time is sounds like a small avalanche. This thing is alive!
I'm sure you've all seen a waterfall but seeing a 'snow'fall is just something else - hundreds of cubic metres of snow cascading down the mountain side just like a waterfall but only it's snow.
I could sit here for hours and just watch this rock!
It is devastatingly high - one of the highest passes in the world at over 5500 m.
Sitting in front of it and staring up at it is quite daunting - it is a 4 mile high wall of solid rock covered in ice and snow.
What is amazing though is listening to it. Every few minutes a huge rock bounces down it's walls, sending huge plumes of snow in to the sky.
Every time is sounds like a small avalanche. This thing is alive!
I'm sure you've all seen a waterfall but seeing a 'snow'fall is just something else - hundreds of cubic metres of snow cascading down the mountain side just like a waterfall but only it's snow.
I could sit here for hours and just watch this rock!
Amex Travel Service
Well Amex Travel Service can eat their heart out - take it from me it doesn't get much more high end than this!!
Khumbu Glacier
This glacier comes down from Everest and you can see Pu Mori on the left which is not so high - around 6400m but is very very technical and claims a few lives each year due to rock fall and avalanche!
Watch out!
Watch out!
Nuptse
A view of Nuptse which is almost 8000m and Everest is directly behind it - we are about to cross the Khumbu Glacier and head over the Kongma La Pass
Camping at 5053m
This must be the most remote place I have ever camped - it is more than a 9 day walk from where you could land a plane!!
Facilities?
Whatever nature provides
Facilities?
Whatever nature provides
Titanium Mug
This is my Snow Peak 600 Titanium mug. I am very proud of this mug as it was a gift for being Best Man at Michael and Kelly O'Byrne's wedding on April 16th.
It is engraved underneath but showing you that would involve pouring Bachelors Cup - a - Soup on myself so that is not going to happen.
It is surprising though how by being thousands of miles away you can feel at home and close to your friends through something so simple.
Here's to Michael and Kelly, wishing them a happy marriage and a great Honeymoon!!
It is engraved underneath but showing you that would involve pouring Bachelors Cup - a - Soup on myself so that is not going to happen.
It is surprising though how by being thousands of miles away you can feel at home and close to your friends through something so simple.
Here's to Michael and Kelly, wishing them a happy marriage and a great Honeymoon!!
Gelsyn Sherpa
This is one of our porters - Gelsyn
He is 20 and is one of 4 children and his oldest brother is 23. His mother is 36 - that's right she was married at 12 and had her first child at 13.
He has never really been to school due to his family's circumstances.
He has been a kitchen boy, a porter, a guide and his ambition is to become a climbing Sherpa - this is well paid work and will give him a future.
Of course he needs to learn the necessary mountain skills and most importantly he needs to learn English properly.
He had tonnes of charisma and is very entertaining and given the opportunity could really make something of his life.
His goal is to work at Everest Base Camp for 3 months next season as a kitchen boy and porter - this is bloody hard work.
For 3 months work (7 days a week) he will earn about 40,000 Nepalese rupees - that is less than 400 pounds.
With this money he plans to go to Kathmandu in the monsoon season (summer 2012) and learn English.
At the end of the trip I am going to surprise him by giving the money to the Head Sherpa and getting him there this summer.
It is incredible how much a small amount of money can make to someone's life - I know we talk a lot about how these little amounts add up but they really do make a difference.
Go Go Gelsyn!!!
He is 20 and is one of 4 children and his oldest brother is 23. His mother is 36 - that's right she was married at 12 and had her first child at 13.
He has never really been to school due to his family's circumstances.
He has been a kitchen boy, a porter, a guide and his ambition is to become a climbing Sherpa - this is well paid work and will give him a future.
Of course he needs to learn the necessary mountain skills and most importantly he needs to learn English properly.
He had tonnes of charisma and is very entertaining and given the opportunity could really make something of his life.
His goal is to work at Everest Base Camp for 3 months next season as a kitchen boy and porter - this is bloody hard work.
For 3 months work (7 days a week) he will earn about 40,000 Nepalese rupees - that is less than 400 pounds.
With this money he plans to go to Kathmandu in the monsoon season (summer 2012) and learn English.
At the end of the trip I am going to surprise him by giving the money to the Head Sherpa and getting him there this summer.
It is incredible how much a small amount of money can make to someone's life - I know we talk a lot about how these little amounts add up but they really do make a difference.
Go Go Gelsyn!!!
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